Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and visitors equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it joins a global network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has always defined its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their younger generation are reluctant to master the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to explore these stories and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
